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Nothing is on. The meter is still turning. That is the whole answer.

Water bill doubled with no change in habits · A faint hiss at night with every tap closed · Damp patch spreading on a wall · A patch of lawn that is always greener · Warm spot on a tiled floor · The meter turns with nothing running
$0One minute and a phone camera — the meter is the only instrument you need
0.5 L/minLooks like nothing. Costs 263 m³ a year
Steady vs swingingA leak turns one way. Air turns both ways. This is the difference
Easy · The test is free, but only if nothing is quietly filling

The dial, the reading, and the four valves you isolate in order

diagnose
Leak indicator
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Form of the movement
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Rate
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Next
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what to touch fault correct Click the dial, a valve or the fixtures

A water meter measures flow, not intention

The impeller inside turns when water moves and stops when it doesn't. It has no idea whether anyone wanted the water. So the question "is there a leak?" has an exact, free, five-minute answer that most people never collect — and instead jump straight to "the meter must be faulty" or "I'll just pay it".

The reason the bill is the first thing anyone notices is that bills arrive every two or three months. A leak can run invisibly on paper for that entire period. By the time the number looks wrong, tens of cubic metres have already gone through. A toilet with a seeping flapper loses one to three tonnes a day — and it is completely silent, because the water runs down the inside of the pan where you never look.

Three forms of movement, three different answers

The arithmetic that changes the decision

People dismiss small leaks because a drip feels trivial. Convert it and it stops feeling trivial. Take your rate in litres per minute, multiply by 1440 for litres per day, then by 365 and divide by 1000 for cubic metres per year. In the picture the calculator shows the benchmark case: 0.5 L/min looks like a thin trickle you cannot even hear, and it is 720 litres a day — 263 cubic metres a year. A one-litre-per-minute leak is over 500 m³. That is the number worth acting on, and you measured it for free.

Isolate before you call anyone

Shut the valve after the meter and watch: if the indicator still turns, the leak is on the supply side or between meter and valve — usually the utility's problem, so report it. If it stops, open that valve, shut the garden or irrigation branch, and watch again: turning means the outside line or irrigation. If that stops it too, open the garden and shut the valve into the house — turning means it is indoors, and you have just saved a call-out fee by proving it. Then work room by room on the isolating valves. Listening helps once you are close: at night, with everything off, put one end of a wooden stick or a screwdriver against the wall or floor and your ear to the other. A leak is a continuous high hiss. Check bends, joints, and anywhere the wall is damp, blistering or mouldy.

Before you start. Simulated meter, not your actual one. This test only tells you whether there is a leak and roughly how big — never exactly where. Stop and call a plumber or the utility if: the rate is above about 1 L/min (that is over 1,400 litres a day and can undermine a slab or flood a cavity), water is visibly tracking through a ceiling or wall, there is a warm patch on the floor (a hot-water line under a slab), you cannot find or operate the main valve, or the leak is on the supply side of the meter. Keep every repair invoice with the leak location, the work done and the date — many utilities offer a leak-adjustment credit, and the paperwork is the claim. If you suspect the meter itself is inaccurate, rule out your own plumbing first: in most places a meter that tests as accurate means you pay the test fee.

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